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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.